Friday, November 5, 2010

Kathmandu Schmatmandu

With the passing of each day, the love I once had for Kathmandu and this country as a whole is dwindling.  Sad but true.  It's like my love tank was once so full, and now it's just being sucked dry by the hardship, the horrific way the earth is treated, and even the people.

Today I took Pukar to a daycare playground that was full of other children.  They asked for my water, drank it all, thought it was funny, and then threw a firecracker that hit my back and exploded.  I lost it.  This was after I burst into tears at my hair appointment because she had misunderstood me on the phone, and I had traveled halfway across town to get my hair cut by someone hopefully skilled, dealt with horrific traffic and a truck that spewed black smoke for most of the way, burning my eyes and lungs (imagine what is happening to Pukar), only to be told my appointment was on another day.  It is just so hard here sometimes that it hurts, and my tears got me in in a half hour.  My hair is shorter, less tangled and she actually did a decent job.  Yay.

We are all moved into our new apartment with DeeDee and Bina.  It was a big day for the kids, but Pukar was a rockstar.  He did really, really well.  He seems to be rolling with the changes easier, and we are really doing exceptionally well.  I cannot say enough about what a great child he is.  I love him so much. 

The RFE hanging over my head is stressful, and now it's Diwali holy-days so another waiting period.  I like all the lights (like Christmas) and all the flowers, candles and tika mandalas...it's a beautiful time and has made Kathmandu look sort of pretty.  I could do without the fireworks that are exploding all night...just another noise that wakes me up in competition with the dogs and cars.  My new room looks out over a dump and a bus station.  I'll have to post photos later.  Hilarious.  But the apartment is nice enough and has everything we need to be as comfortable as you can be in this place.  I am really thankful to be here, and it's truly the first time I have totally unpacked in the six weeks I have been in Nepal.

I spent a beautiful evening last night with my friend Michelle from Leavenworth who lost her husband Joe last week in a climbing accident.  I felt very honored to be able to share this very intimate time with her,  Joe's parents, his climbing partner Dave, and one other friend.  We dined on a beautiful rooftop terrace and they reminisced about what an amazing life Joe had led, and what an inspirational person he was to so many people all over the world.  In the Alpine Climbing World, Joe was on top. His Buddhist cremation took place this morning very early and I did not attend. 

Another visa was approved out of Kathmandu this week, which is great news for another family!  I'm happy that some of us get to go home with our children.  It helps all of us... I hope.

Some days are better than others here.  I have learned a lot by being here, and certainly will look back on all this as a great experience on many levels.  But today was hard, and living here is hard, and that's the truth of it.

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